Skin care
Published: 5. 4. 2025
Understanding Comedogenicity
Comedogenicity refers to the ability of certain ingredients to clog pores, thereby contributing to the formation of blackheads, whiteheads, or pimples. While not everyone will experience acne from comedogenic ingredients, understanding which ones might pose a risk is important for those with acne-prone skin.
What Makes Ingredients Comedogenic?
An ingredient is considered comedogenic if it increases the likelihood of pore blockages by altering sebum properties (such as adhesion and rheological behavior) or by creating an occlusive environment that traps dead skin cells and debris.
🔍 Explanations:
- Adhesion: how well the sebum sticks to skin or other substances.
- Rheological behavior: how the sebum flows and spreads (its thickness, viscosity, and texture).
- Occlusive environment: enclosed environment with trapped impurities.
Ingredients that are comedogenic are typically oils or heavy substances. For example, products containing coconut oil or lanolin are known to cause issues for some individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. However, it’s important to remember that not all comedogenic ingredients affect everyone in the same way. Factors such as skin type, lifestyle, and environment can influence how an ingredient performs on your skin.
Researchers have performed 11 studies investigating the capability of numerous ingredients and final products to clog pores. This research provides a solid foundation for understanding which ingredients are more likely to cause pore blockages, offering valuable insight into the ingredients that those with acne-prone skin should watch out for.
How to Choose a Non-comedogenic Product for Acne-prone Skin
Choosing the right skincare products can be challenging, especially when dealing with acne-prone skin. While many studies have examined the comedogenicity of various ingredients, it's important to note that these studies often use different methods, concentrations, and testing durations, which can lead to inconsistencies in the results. Furthermore, the comedogenicity of an ingredient in a raw form doesn't necessarily apply to how it behaves in a finished product, as the concentration of ingredients in a formula can vary.
Many comedogenicity tests are conducted with ingredients at 10% concentration, but final products often contain these ingredients in much lower amounts, which reduces their potential to clog pores. Additionally, since ingredients interact differently in formulas, a product containing a comedogenic ingredient may not necessarily clog pores, depending on the other components in the formula.
Despite these variables, the data we have allows us to make some general recommendations. To help you navigate this, we’ve compiled two lists of ingredients based on their comedogenicity across studies:
- Pore clogging – Ingredients that were found to be comedogenic in two or more rabbit ear assays or in at least one human study.
- Potentially pore clogging – Ingredients that were found to be comedogenic in only one rabbit ear test.
Did you know that: Mineral oil is comedogenic only in its industrial form; pure, cosmetic-grade mineral oil is generally considered non-comedogenic.
Manufacturers list ingredients in order of concentration, with the highest percentage first. However, once the concentration dips below 1%, the ingredient order is no longer regulated, making it harder to gauge its presence in the formula. As a general guideline, it's advisable to avoid products where a comedogenic ingredient appears in the top seven ingredients on the label.
Did you know that: Comedogenic ingredients don’t cause clogged pores or acne instantly, instead, they often build up over time with continuous use, eventually leading to comedones in susceptible individuals.
At Cosminex, we help you make informed decisions by providing detailed information on comedogenic substances in cosmetic mixtures. Our platform indicates whether a product contains ingredients that should be avoided or considered for avoidance based on their comedogenicity. In Detailed Mode, you can also view the exact position of the comedogenic substance in the ingredient list, giving you a clearer understanding of how it might impact your skin. Our model also works with cases where some ingredients, such as cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20, are considered non-comedogenic on their own, however, when used together in a formulation, they can create an anti-synergy effect, potentially leading to comedogenicity.
By using this information, you can choose products that are better suited to your skin type, minimizing the risk of acne and helping you maintain healthy, clear skin.
References
- Kligman, A. M., & Mills, O. H. (1972). Acne cosmetica. Arch Dermatol, 106, 843–850. doi:10.1001/archderm.1972.01620150029011
- Mills, A. M., & Kligman, O. H. (1975). Acne detergicans. Arch Dermatol, 111, 65–68. doi:10.1001/archderm.1975.01630130067007
- Kligman, A. M., & Kwong, T. (1979). An improved rabbit ear model for assessing comedogenic substances. Br J Dermatol, 100, 699–702. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.1979.tb08075.x
- Mills, O. H., & Kligman, A. M. (1982). A human model for assessing comedogenic substances. Arch Dermatol, 118, 903–905. doi:10.1001/archderm.1982.01650230031022
- Mills, A. M., & Kligman, O. H. (1982). Comedogenicity of sunscreens. Arch Dermatol, 118, 417–419. doi:10.1001/archderm.1982.01650180051016
- Morris, W. E., & Kwan, S. C. (1983). Use of the rabbit ear model in evaluating the comedogenic potential of cosmetic ingredients. J Soc Cosmet Chem, 34, 215–225. Link
- Fulton, J. E., Pay, S. R., & Fulton, J. E. (1984). Comedogenicity of current therapeutic products, cosmetics, and ingredients in the rabbit ear. J Am Acad Dermatol, 10, 69–105. doi:10.1016/s0190-9622(84)80050-x
- Lanzet, M. (1986). Comedogenic effects of cosmetic raw materials. Cosmet Toilet, 101, 63–72.
- Fulton, J. E. (1989). Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem, 43, 321–333. Link
- Draelos, Z. D., & DiNardo, J. C. (2006). A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. J Am Acad Dermatol, 54, 507–512. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058
- Nguyen, S. H., Dang, T. P., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (3rd ed.), 583–586. Link
- Kligman, A. M. (1996). Petrolatum is not comedogenic in rabbits or humans: A critical reappraisal of the rabbit ear assay and the concept of “acne cosmetic.” J Soc Cosmet Chem, 47, 41–48. Link
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